Circus Kathmandu

"But this guy only talks about martial arts, what the hell is he doing in Nepal apart from dressing up as a karateka and running with monkeys? "

As Rouen Business School would put it, I am exploring new worlds and going forward as a responsible leader.

I am working for Freedom Matters, a British organisation that fights child trafficking and aims to:

-          free children and young people who have been enslaved or subjected to sexual abuse

-          bring them justice by actively pursuing the traffickers,

-          restore their confidence by teaching them new skills – centred on visual arts and performing arts – which lead to employment.

 

Drawing class at Godawari refuge.

 

The Sapana and Circus Kathmandu projects aim to make contemporary circus a respected profession in Nepal.

Sapana allows young people in the refuge to discover circus professions before joining the professional company, Circus Kathmandu, which is able to self-finance and generate funds by performing both locally and internationally.

 

Circus Kathmandu, currently made up of thirteen talented
young people.

 

I am the Marketing Director and Events Producer.  As such, my main responsibilities are to create Circus Kathmandu’s visual identity, promote it in Nepal and abroad and organize and produce its shows. The website.

During a typical week, I also train with the troupe twice or thrice, visit the children at the Godawari refuge on Saturdays and give Anjeli - a CK member studying business - marketing and production lessons on Sundays.

 

First attempt: juggle with three clubs, handstand
and backflip.

So, I have finally managed to connect the dots: an arrogant business school I never saw the point in, a "cultural organisation marketing" major from Bordeaux which I can only describe as my worst student experience and a strong urge to travel and get involved in social issues.

Watch Steve Jobs’ 2005 Stanford Commencement speech.

 



28 days later

I have now been training for about a month, from 6.30 am to 9.30 am Sunday to Friday. A typical day’s training involves: core strengthening exercises, techniques, a series of punches, stretching, yoga and tea. Once a month, training is replaced by a jog to the Monkey Temple.

On top of Swayambunath, better known as
Monkey Temple.

 

Each session begins with the children who come to the dojo before school and the instructors who motivate and encourage them. All the while, the master practices and watches the disciples from the corner of his eye.

 

For the core strengthening exercises, we have to form a circle and each person takes it in turn to count. The exercises are extremely difficult as they are done in quick succession. Moreover, as in many martial arts, there are many variations of push-ups (knuckle push-ups, three finger push-ups, one arm push-ups, …), squats (squat knee raises, butt-to-heel squats, full range of motion stretches, …) and of course, sit-ups.

Once our muscles are warmed up, everyone lines up to start practising the techniques used  to learn the range of strokes (feet, fists, knees, elbows, blocking, locks) and get ready for the yantras, the equivalent of katas in karate. The theory is then followed by a little practice as disciples hit paos held by their training partners.

Inside the dojo, waiting for Guru.

 

The children are between 6 and 13 and their endurance, strength and suppleness are impressive. After the punches, training is over for them. I stay behind with the master for a stretching session (I am becoming increasingly flexible) and some yoga to learn how to control my breathing.

The session ends with tea in the Guru’s office. He tells me more about the history of Budokai-Do, how it has spread throughout the world and shows me many photographs of Maha Guru training when he was young.

It takes me just about half an hour to get home. I often make a second tea stop at Prakash’s before heading for a cold shower – what other choice is there? – to start my day off well.

Until I receive my black belt, I won’t mention Budokai-Do again.

 

 

First foray into Budokai territory

My immersion into Budokai began when Prakash introduced me to Maha Guru’s younger brother, Bada Guru. He is the second-highest ranking Budokai master in the world – 6^th dan black belt compared to his older brother’s 10^th dan – and he will be training me.

Maha Guru Sagar Shrestha, Budokai-Do founder (left), and
his little brother Bada Guru.

He lives in a big residence that includes his office, the dojo, his apartment and his handyman’s quarters. His huge German Shepherd uses the magnificent garden full of flowers as a playground. All this makes up the International Budokai-Do Federation headquarters which serves as a base for the eighty Nepalese clubs.

 

Dojo.

 

When I first met Bada Guru in his office together with some of his friends and Prakash, I began to understand the true sense of Nepalese hospitality. The spicy food and roxy (Nepalese eau-de-vie) burnt its way through my stomach as I visited the dojo like a museum, weaving my way between collection pieces, trophies, an altar dedicated to the Grand Master and weapons that include a Khukuri, famously used by British Gurkhas.

 

Gurkhas practicing khukuri.

 

Thousands of martial arts enthusiasts would happily spend a fortune to set foot in this sacred place. That’s when it dawned on me: I am going to be following the teachings of Bada Guru in the very dojo where Budokai-Do was born for the next year.  

All thanks to a chance encounter during a morning walk that probably wasn’t a dream.

Training will begin in two days.

 

 

Budokai, Dawn and Two Smokin' Puris

6 o'clock in the morning.

With the birds singing out of tune and the dogs barking, there’s no way I’m going to get back to sleep. An early morning walk being better than fruitless attempts to get some shuteye, I set out across town for the first time in search of some breakfast.

I turn left once, right twice and I’m lost. There's no way I'll find my way back on an empty stomach.

 

 

Craftsmen, traders, masons, students and devotees all point me towards a nameless tea room. The suspicious looks I attract - due to the fact there aren’t many tourists here - rapidly turn into a warm welcome.

The owner realizes that I am at a loss in front of the shop window and recommends a few pieces of some delicious bread with some traditional tea. Baguettes had better watch out.

As I leave, I remember that I have still not come accross any Budokai-Do clubs (a Nepalese martial art no-one here seems to have heard of).  I am curious and ask about it whilst searching for the few rupees that will suffice to settle the bill.

"Maha Guru is a childhood friend. Come back after midday and I’ll take you to his school".

Master Sagar Shrestha story is incredible. It was while fighting in the street that he developped  a martial art based on ducking and the opponent’s imbalance. Over the years, he honed his movements to create a style that is unique in its genre. He is now recognized as the official Budokai-Do founder.

I take a picture of the facade to be sure not to miss the appointment and in the process, capture a customer's daughter smiling. I also get the phone number of the owner, Prakash.

 

So here I am on the way back knowing full well that I have no idea where I’m going. I don’t really recognize the few landmarks I should and soon enough, I am climbing stairs I never went down. At the corner of the first street, I ask a man in a residence for directions.

It was our guard and it was our house. That’s a lot of coincidences for a walk that only lasted a few half-hours.

Or maybe it was just a dream.